THE RIVIERA

The Albanian Riviera runs south from Vlore to Saranda along 120 kilometres of Ionian coastline that remains, by European standards, remarkably unspoilt. Limestone headlands plunge into water so clear you can read the bottom at ten metres. Fishing villages perch on cliffs above small harbours where painted boats still go out at dawn. The food is the product of altitude, salt, and patience - grilled fish, olive oil from trees that are older than any living person, and wine poured by someone whose grandfather planted the vines. This is the Mediterranean as it existed before mass tourism discovered it. Come before it does.